Well, we made it home safely! The girls and I returned back to the good old USA on Wednesday afternoon after a LONG and chaotic 24 hours of traveling. I meant to write this post yesterday, but I have been busy catching up on my beauty sleep. Not sure if it was the lack of sleep on the trip, all of us being sick the last few days, or the jet lag, but I have officially slept 30 of the last 40 hours. I didn't even know that was possible. I probably deserve a medal or something. Anyway...back to the last two days of The Foreign Bodies Take Tanzania!
On Monday night we got back from our rollercoaster of a weekend in Zanzibar and started packing our bags to come home. We left two of our suitcases with the CCC, so we had to figure out how we wanted to pack all of our belongings and souvenirs. I don't think any of us realized how much we bought while we were over there until we packed. My souvenirs filled an entire carry on suitcase, plus part of my large suitcase. We all decided to leave most of our toiletries in the hallway closet of the house for the next guests to use. We way overshot the amount of deet bug spray, sunscreen, shampoo/conditioner, etc. that we would need, but it was better to have too much, rather than not enough. Plus, this meant more room for souvenirs on the way home!
None of us slept great that last night in the house. Maybe it was just a coincidence, but maybe it was that we were all sad our journey had come to an end. All four of us cannot believe how fast the time went. Those three weeks flew by. We would have all loved at least one more week there to finish some of the tasks that we started, but it was time to head back to our reality.
That morning we made the 17 minute long walk to the CCC. We now know the exact amount of time it takes because this particular time I decided to video the entire walk. I thought it would be fun to speed the video up and be able to show people the walk that we made between one to three times per day (depending on if we went home for lunch, locked ourselves out of the house and had to walk back to the clinic, etc.). We got to the clinic that morning and everyone, including us, was extremely sad that it was our last few hours there. We planned on staying at the clinic until around 1pm, would head home to shower and do last minute packing, and then had to leave for the airport around 5pm. When we got there, it was like any other morning. The staff was getting ready for their Tuesday clinic day, and the four of us set up in the conference room like we often did. We thought everyone was coming in for the daily morning meeting to talk about patients coming in that day, but quickly realized that the entire staff was there to properly send us off. We sat around in a big circle and they all took turns to say a few words to us. As we all tried to hold back our tears, we listened as they gave us more credit than we deserved. Some of the comments that stuck out most to us were from the two doctors, Furaha and Oliver. Furaha told us that we had become part of their family and this was so heartwarming to hear because we felt the exact same way. We were going to miss all of these wonderful people that we learned to love in such a short amount of time. Furaha then went on to say that we took the three weeks that we were here and did what some people would take a year to do. Oliver agreed and said that when he first heard that we were only coming for 3 weeks, he didn't think that it would be enough time. However, he was pleasantly surprised and very impressed by all that we got accomplished in such a short amount of time. Hearing these two doctors, that we respect tremendously, talk about how much our work will improve their daily practice and work flow made all of our hard work worth it. There were very few days during our time in Moshi that we weren't working from sun up to sun down. After clinic and infusion days, we would go back to our cozy little house, pull out our computers, and continue to work on their protocols and workflows. One of our biggest accomplishments while there was taking their chemotherapy protocols and putting them onto their chemotherapy order form. Now when a patient comes into the clinic and needs chemotherapy, Furaha and Oliver can grab the sheet of paper with the correct protocol already entered in, and fill in the dose that is applicable to that specific patient. This saves them so much time. Unless they want to change the protocol for special circumstances, they no longer have to look up the protocol and handwrite each chemotherapy medication, the supportive medications, IV fluids, etc. They can just review the protocol, circle what they want, and fill in the couple of blank spaces.
After the staff went around and spoke, we got the opportunity to thank all of them for graciously welcoming us into their lives. The past three weeks had exceeded our expectations by a long shot, and we would have loved to be able to bring them all home with us so we didn't have to say goodbye. Just as we thought the meeting was over, the staff brought out a cake that was decorated like the Tanzanian flag, and they gave us four BEAUTIFUL pieces of fabric to which they tied around each of us individually. We then took a lot of pictures, the four of us cut the cake together as if it was our wedding day, and Nat fed Jane a piece of cake which is tradition. We enjoyed cake, toasted each other with glass soda bottles, and gave many many hugs. Then as their clinic day started, the four of us finished up last minute odds and ends, Nat and Kari wrote a letter to the executive director regarding what we accomplished and what we recommend, and Brittany and I went to pay off our invoices for our stay. Little did we know they wanted us to pay for the house in USD, and not in a couple million shillings. At first the man counting the shillings seemed a little upset with us, but when I told him "money is money", the entire office had a good laugh and we left off on good terms!
Around 1pm, we said our final goodbyes to the CCC staff and walked back to A18 one last time....our cozy home for the past 3 weeks. Fatuma had prepared one final meal for us and it was delicious. We were definitely going to miss her cooking, but more importantly her warmth that she greeted us with every morning, afternoon, and evening.
A little before 5:00, Festo came to our house, followed by Jane and her friend shortly after. Festo, my Tanzanian husband (the dowry is still being worked out), wanted to bring me to the airport to say goodbye, and then Jane's friend would bring the other girls. So we packed up the cars, took pictures with Fatuma, and we were off. We drove the 45 minutes to the airport, all a bit sad and numb.
We arrived to the airport 3 1/2 hours before our flight to Amsterdam, wanting to allow enough time for any mishaps. Thankfully, besides my bag being 1.9 kg over the weight limit, all went smoothly...I didn't even have to pay an overage fee. I just got a wink from the airport worker and went along my merry way. We made it through security, bought more souvenirs, had dinner, and went to our gate. All was going well...until it wasn't. We were sitting in a row of chairs and Nat was teaching me how to count from 1 to 10 in Swahili. I was killing it until I forgot what "6" was. I hear the lady behind us say "sita" which is "6", so I turned to smile at her, but in the meantime I accidently bumped my carry on suitcase. Normally this would not be an issue, but I left the handle all the way up and had my heavy tote resting on the suitcase, so when it fell, it fell HARD. Before I knew it, the handle SMACKED a lady in the head that was sitting right in front of me. The noise that it made will forever be stuck in my head. As the lady yelled "ouch, oh my god" and grabbed her head, all eyes were on me. I'm sure I turned an unhealthy shade of purple and wanted to crawl into a hole and die. I apologized like crazy, but I'm sure the women couldn't even think clearly. As she turned around, I thought...."hmmmm that lady looks kind of familiar....is that one of the Physician Assistants from Southdale Hospital? Noooo, it couldn't be. Could it?" Well you guessed it. It was one of the PAs from the hospital. Not only did I smoke someone in the head with my luggage in Africa, but it just happens to be someone I know. Seriously, when will this dark cloud find someone else to linger over. After a few minutes of awkwardness, me apologizing like crazy again, and then all of us realizing that we know each other, we spent the next 30 minutes talking about our trips. We found out that she and her husband were on their honeymoon, had done a safari, climbed Mount Kilimanjaro, and now were heading to Amsterdam for a few days. It really is a small world after all. I apologized again, she said she was glad that I hit her and not someone else (really, I would have preferred a stranger), and we all boarded our flight to Amsterdam...
We settled into our seats on the huge KLM plane that was taking us on our first leg of our trip home. Little did we know, this plane was scheduled for a 1 hour layover in Dar es Saalem. So we landed in Dar but this time we didn't try to get off the plane. Most of the plane unloaded, but we sat there, unable to watch movies or do anything except stare at each other, while they refueled, restocked, changed over the flight crew, and vacuumed around us. As the plane started to fill back up, I crossed my fingers that whomever was assigned to the the seat I was sitting in would change seats with me. All 3 of the other girls were together in the four person row in the middle of the plane, then there was a random stranger in the aisle seat, and then I was in the aisle seat across from him. I figured if I asked nicely and told the person that the four of us were together, it would be an easy switch. NOPE! In walks this big burly man with dreadlocks, who smelled of alcohol. I begin to explain to him why I'm in his seat and why he should just take mine, which is also a wonderful aisle seat. He was not having it. He said "I will start off in my seat. Then maybe after we take off we can switch." "But sir, I'm already IN your seat. Could you please just take my seat which is also an aisle seat. I would like to sit with my friends." At this time, a flight attendant came up to us and asked what was going on. She immediately understood and asked the man if he would switch seats with me. She talked to him for a minute before he looked at me and said "You are a bad negotiator!" Ummmm ok...but you're still taking my seat, right?!
We heard that we were ahead of schedule and we would be taking off. The pilot was not messing around because they started taxiing down the runway while about 15 people were still trying to find their seat. I like your promptness, Captain, but let's let people buckle up, eh! The flight took off from Dar and we were all wiped. All four of us start to doze off. Brittany has taken her Dramamine and Benadryl, and I have taken my Ativan for the flight. I'm not sure how much time had passed (probably not a lot), but I hear a bit of commotion. I open up my eyes just enough to see two flight attendants go running by, and one of them yells "someone grab the medical kit!" Great, here we go.... I sit up, kind of unsure where I am or whats going on, and see that there is a group of about 5 people huddled around a row about 8 rows up. I look at the girls who are all coming out of their sleep and tell them I was going to go check it out. Good idea right...send the nurse that is doped up on Ativan to the emergency. The girls claim that before they knew it or could say that maybe someone that is not on Ativan should go, I was gone. I walk up to the group of people and see a lady sitting upright in the middle of the row. Surrounding her are her husband, another couple they traveled with, a pediatrician, and a couple flight attendants. I introduce myself and ask what's going on. Turns out this group of travelers (all in their 70s), had driven up part of Mt Kilimanjaro earlier that day. This lady was quite dehydrated, had diarrhea, too much elevation change for one day, and was just really really sick. She was super pale, sweaty, and wasn't following commands. I motioned back to the other 3 girls to bring up all of our pillows and blankets, because we wanted to get this lady laying down with her legs propped up, because she was about to pass out. The girls rushed up right in time for us to lay her down, before she started vomiting all over the floor. We talked with the pediatrician (who let's just say....the four of us needed to be running the show because I would not let this guy doctor a family member of mine if their life depended on it), and he thought we should move the lady back on the floor by the bathrooms where we would have more room to work on her. The only problem was that she kept vomiting and we knew it would only get worse when she sat up. We decided that we could try it, but we needed to SLOWLY sit her up in stages and see if she even tolerated it, otherwise we would just leave her there and work with what we had. So what does the doctor do, he sat her up super quickly and all the way up. Guess what happened....she vomited again. Well yea, we told you that sir! Well that convinced him to leave her there. We grabbed supplies, got an IV started on her, and gave her a bolus of 500mL. We raided their medication kit and found that they had Reglan (an anti-nausea med). We grabbed it and asked the pediatrician if we should give her that in hopes of it making her less nauseous. He said "no, let's wait". This was so frustrating because we knew it would help her, but we are nurses and he is a doctor, and we didn't want to practice outside of our scope. One of the flight attendants comes up to me and said that the captain wanted an update on what was going on, and that there was a doctor on the phone in Amsterdam. So the pediatrician goes up by the captain, gives him an update, talks to the doctor in Amsterdam on the phone, comes back and says, "The doctor in Amsterdam wants us to give her Reglan". Hmmmmm you don't say. (I'm sure all of our faces were priceless) Anyway, we give her Reglan and she started to perk up a bit after the 1/2 liter bolus of fluids. The only problem now was that we had 5 hours to go in the flight, didn't have anymore IV fluids, and she couldn't keep any fluids down. The Captain came out and talked to us a couple of times. He was so nice and would do whatever we said. He stated that in about an hour we would be flying over Cairo, Egypt and could stop there if need be. The lady seemed to be somewhat stable for the time being so we decided that we could continue on, knowing that there were now many cities and airports along the way to make an emergency landing, and all we needed to do was say so. We got the lady's husband sitting in an aisle seat, laid her head on his lap, and she rested. The four of us went back to our seats and checked on her frequently throughout the remainder of the trip. Shortly after we sat down, one of the flight attendants came up to us with an ipad. She thanked us over and over again for helping them out. She stated that they wouldn't have known what to do if we weren't there to help. To show us how much they appreciated us, they gave us each a $250 voucher for our next flight on Delta, KLM, or Air France. This was so unnecessary, but we definitely weren't going to pass up a flight voucher; however, I don't know that the four of us should be traveling together anytime soon....trouble seems to follow us. Haha. When we landed in Amsterdam, we all got off the plane, passing by the aisle with the lady and her husband. To our surprise, the lady was sitting upright in her seat, gave us all a smile, and her and her husband thanked us for our help. Just seeing her looking so well was thanks enough! When we were in the airport in Amsterdam, an American man came up to us and said that he was so proud of us for helping out on the plane, and seeing us help made him proud to be an American. It was so incredibly sweet. (Side note: Nat and I were talking and decided that we would all be killer nurses with no resources and in the middle of no where. The plane didn't have any alcohol wipes, so we used my hand sanitizer wipes to clean her arm before the IV was started. There also wasn't a clamp on the IV tubing to stop blood from backflowing, so I took out my hair binder and we tied it off. #resourceful)
In Amsterdam we went into various shops, sampled about a dozen stroopwafles, and made our way to McDonalds. Guess what we had.....MCKROKETS!!! Nat wasn't sure if we played it up too much in our head during the trip, or if it was because we had all been feeling under the weather since Zanzibar, but she wasn't all that impressed. Kari and I thoroughly enjoyed ours though!
After our 3 hour layover in Amsterdam, we boarded one last final flight. We started to notice that the plane wasn't going to be full and we started stalking empty rows. Before the plane door was even closed, Britt and I each found our own side row, and Nat and Kari were able to spread out in our original 4 person row. As for what happened after that...I'm not sure. I passed out the entire way home from Amsterdam. Nat even said at one point she walked up to make sure I was breathing because I hadn't moved in 4 hours. Unfortunately the other girls didn't get as good of sleep as I did, but when I did look back at them or walked by them to the bathroom, they were watching movies together, sharing headphones, and giggling....what we did for the entire three weeks.
We landed in Minneapolis, breezed through customs (not once being asked to pay additional money because we were Mzungu), collected our bags, and we all had rides waiting for us outside of door 6. We hugged each other goodbye, said we would see each other at work this weekend, and off we went.
- Cari
Here are some pictures from our final days!
- Jane and Peter (German Pharmacist) having drinks with us at the Biker Bar
- The reaction after Furaha told Jane and Peter about the phrase that we were taught that DID NOT mean what we thought it did
- Drinks at the Biker Bar
- The beautiful CCC
- The CCC's Infusion Centre, which is connected by a short side walk
- KCMC campus - the view from the CCC
- Nat and Britt goofing around in the clinic
- Furaha and Oliver (the CCC's amazing doctors)
- 3 of the nurses: Neema, Lucy, and Jane
- Nat feeding Jane cake
- Kari, Neema, Nat, Lucy, and Britt
- The whole gang (minus Oliver, who kindly volunteered to take the picture)
- The four of us outside our house with Fatuma
- Nat snapped this gorgeous picture on the way to the airport
- The cake resembling the Tanzanian flag
- Ready to board our first flight to Amsterdam
- Britt and Kari were ready too (you can see the scene of the crime behind the girls...where my suitcase almost caused a mild concussion)
- Britt catching some Zzzzz's before all hell broke loose (how can she even sleep like that?!)
- The McKroket!!
- Britt was so excited to get a milkshake in the Kilimanjaro Airport
- Nat puckering up to an elephant in Amsterdam
We want to thank you all for reading along on our journey. None of this could have been possible without all of our loved ones donating to such a wonderful cause. The relationship we have with the CCC will be ongoing for many years to come, and we could not be more happy or proud of this new collaboration with such an amazing team in Tanzania.
Love,
Cari, Kari, Nat, and Brittany
Friday, March 10, 2017
Tuesday, March 7, 2017
"I would rather just die"
Sorry for the delay in posting. I
know that many of you are wondering what happened with Zanzibar’s immigration office
and getting forced back on the plane, so here we go!
Let's rewind back to Thursday… We started our morning at the clinic, and showed the nurses and doctors how their new protocol and medication administration record sheets will work. The response was great and we are very optimistic that these will improve their daily practice. After the meeting, Evelyn, the clinic's care coordinator, said we would go shopping so we could buy the clinic a new printer. The one they currently have is not very fast and they often do not have the correct ink readily available. So we set off...thinking it would be a 2 hour process. Boy were we wrong!!
We headed to the first printer shop and set our budget, which was very generous thanks to so many of our family and friends that donated back home. We found a model that we were interested in and quickly learned that the price was 2.5 million shillings ($1100 USD). Being that the printer was around our budget, we considered it but thought we better shop around a bit. To make a long story short, we went to four other printer shops, 2 stationary stores, a coffee shop, 2 souvenir shops, 2 travel agents (more on this later), bottomed out Evelyn's car causing us to enjoy an awful screeching noise the rest of the trip, before landing back at the second printer shop to make our purchase on a great printer. By this time, 4 hours had passed and we got in and out of the car probably 9 times. So the printer shop told us our final price and I pulled out our fund's debt card excited to finally pay...only to find out that they do not accept credit cards. I'M SORRY, WHAT?! We all had a look of panic on our face before we started thinking about how the heck we were going to get 2.4 million shillings in cash. All of our credit and debit cards have a daily limit of $180, so we thought the entire chaotic day was all for nothing. We put our heads together, did some serious math using our currency converter app, and decided that if we all took out our maximum daily limit, used the $200 USD I had in my wallet, and if I drew from one of my additional personal cards, we had enough money to buy the printer. We put all of the money into the printing company's bank account, took the receipt to the printer shop, got a receipt for the purchase, and arranged for them to delivery the printer to the clinic for later that afternoon. After all was said and done, we spent 6 hours printer shopping, but it was ALL worth it when we saw how excited the entire staff was at KCMC. Instead of a small and slow printer that wasn't usable much of the time, they now had an industrial printer that can print double sided, 25 pages per minute, can make copies, and can scan and fax. This will help the clinic so much. Furaha was busy doing hospital rounds when the new printer was delivered, so we thought we would give him an extra surprise. As we saw Furaha walking back toward the clinic, Kari and Nat quickly jumped into the huge printer box and we closed it up. When he returned, he and Oliver (who was in on the joke), opened the box and Furaha jumped back about 5 feet as Nat popped out first. I took video of this and we have all had a good laugh watching it back.
Setting up the new printer -
So going back to our two stops at the travel agent office earlier in the day...
When we planned our trip to Zanzibar, we planned on staying until Monday which would only leave one more night in Moshi before heading back to the states. Thinking it through more we all agreed that it would be nice to have two more days at the clinic instead of one, so we wanted to see if we could change our return flight. We headed to Fast Jet only to learn that we were not booked on a flight TO Zanzibar. Again we all panicked and I immediately pulled up the email that clearly showed our confirmed flight to Zanzibar. We were told again and again that the flight didn't exist, but “Hakuna Matata”, because we had a return flight. Awesome, thanks lady. A return flight does wonders for us if we don't have a flight there. So we all decided we wouldn't change our return flight because who knows when we would get to Zanzibar now. So, we hopped into the car (AGAIN!) and headed to Precision Air which is what we were flying to Zanzibar. When we got to that travel agent's office, things went south REALLY fast. To spare you all the ugly details, they said our flight no longer existed, so we would have to pay $260 EACH to re-book a new flight to Zanzibar. At this point, Nat started blowing smoke out of her ears, her face turned bright red, and her head started spinning in circles. Nat scolded the two ladies, told them they were cheating us, and that they better fix this and put us on a new flight for free because we had already bought a flight. One of the ladies called her manager to see if there was anything that could be done, but started to look terrified toward the end of the conversation. Being Nat understands quite a bit of Swahili, she heard the travel agent say to her manager in Swahili, "I'm so scared. I swear to god I'm afraid to tell her!" Knowing this after the fact is hilarious and shows how upset we were about the situation. At this point, Brittany and Evelyn came back from a neighboring store, and once the travel agents saw that we had a local with us, their entire attitude changed and they magically had us booked on another flight for later that morning for free. This was a big learning point for us as we realized how badly Mzungu can be treated, and that some bad apples will try to get more money from us. So they printed our new tickets and we were on our way, swearing to never fly Precision Air again.
Later that evening we went to the local biker bar for drinks with Furaha and Oliver, Peter (the German pharmacist), and Evelyn and Jane. We had so many great laughs and shared stories with each other about past experiences. This was one of my favorite evenings of the trip. Getting to know each other and laugh was so welcoming after our crazy day! After drinks we walked home and packed for our weekend in Zanzibar...this time packing with the power on!
We woke up early on Friday and were picked up by our trusty driver, Festo. We drove the 45 minutes to Kilimanjaro's International Airport. We walked in and went straight to the check-in counter where I was asked to show the credit card that I booked the flights on. (Side note: we booked our round trip flights on Kiwi.com. NEVER use this company) I gave them my credit card and they told me this was not the correct card number. I started to get hot and sweaty as I remembered that the CEO of Kiwi sent me his credit card information (yes, you read that correctly), so I handed the lady my phone so she could look at the email, and what do you know...it worked.
We walked to our gate and took a seat. It wasn't long before they said "rows 1-10 can come board the bus to go to the plane". We all jumped up and hopped on the bus. We headed toward the plane, whipped a U-turn, and then stopped. A lady on the bus said "the pilot suddenly got food poisoning, so there is another one 10 minutes away." For those that know me, you know I HATE to fly. Thoughts started swirling in my mind about the airline picking some 17 year old off the street who is interested in flying a plane. So, we were then returned to the gate, got off the bus, and five minutes later were told we could get back on the bus because the pilot was magically better. My food poisoning experiences generally last 5 minutes too….not! As we walked on the runway toward the plane, we saw a suspicious group of guys and our “creep alerts” instantly went off. One was wearing a black cut off tank and had a strange walking cane. When one of the airline employees asked to take the cane and put it under the plane, he refused and started limping, insinuating that he needed it for medical reasons. Nat immediately said that there was most likely cocaine in the cane, and we all 100% agreed. We hopped on the hot and muggy plane and settled in for our 45 minute flight to our layover in Zanzibar. Our original flight did not have a layover in Zanzibar, but now that we had to stop there prior to going to Dar es Saalem, we decided that we should just get off the plane in Zanzibar being that was our final destination. During flight Nat kept a close eye on the “drug lords”. Once we reached our cruising altitude and the seat belt sign went off, the guy with the cocaine cane immediately hopped out of his seat and walked back toward the back of the plane. Nat and I were watching him like a hawk because he was acting so suspicious. Nat had even created an entire plan in her mind about how she was going to take them all down if they tried to hijack the plane (this was how bizarre they were acting). Anyway, the plane safely landed in Zanzibar without being hijacked and we grabbed our bags from the overhead cabinets. Kari and I were the first to get off the plane and as we walked down the stairs and onto the runway, rap music started playing in our minds, and we realized we hit baller status. We waited for Nat and Britt to get off the plane and we all headed to the shuttle bus. We sat down and holy buckets….we did it!!! Just kidding, things get really sour here. We sat there for probably two minutes before a security guard came onto the bus and started asking people for their boarding pass. We hear, “There are four people missing from that plane, and they need to get back on it right now”. NOOOOOOO!! We all got a pit in our stomach and once again for the 100th time in two days, started to freak out a little bit. One of the girls behind us, quickly handed her boarding pass to Kari which would show that she could get off in Zanzibar. I leaned over and told her not to show that because I felt that we could get into A LOT more trouble if we used a fake ticket rather than if we just got off at the wrong stop. So Kari, Nat, Britt, and I all just “magically lost our tickets or threw them away on the plane”. The security guard was not having it and called in back-up. Suddenly there were 6 security guards/flight attendants surrounding us and we were adamant that we were not getting off that shuttle and back on the plane. We tried everything. “This is not our fault. Our original flight got rescheduled.” “We want to talk to a manager. We are not getting back on that plane”. “Precision Air said we could get off here because of the flight cancellation”. Nothing. Was. Working. I am not sure how many times we got yelled at by them to get back on the plane before the drug lords started to yell, “Let’s go. Get off the bus”. After a good 10 minutes of arguing (so well that we actually had convinced ourselves that we were the ones that had been wronged), we did the walk of shame back onto the runway, climbed the stairs, and sat down again on the damn hot and muggy plane! We flew 20 minutes before landing in Dar. We originally planned on taking the 12:30 pm ferry from Dar to Zanzibar (about a 90 minute boat ride). We got off the plane at 11:45 and hoped that we could still catch that ferry. Google Maps, which has been our best friend here, said that it would take 35 minutes to get there, so we quickly grabbed a taxi driver and negotiated our price. He said that it was possible to still catch the ferry, and we quickly learned that this guy flat out lied. It took us AN HOUR AND A HALF!! Argh! This guy took us through markets, villages, and scared the crap out of Britt who was sitting in the front. He told us not to go out in Zanzibar at night time, watch our bags because people will pick pocket us, etc….really all common sense things that we had already been doing, but because of the fact that he told us like he was telling a haunted story around a campfire, Brittany was about ready to jump. He dropped us off at the ferry where we were swarmed by random strangers in orange construction vests grabbing for our bags. We quickly learned that if you let them take your bag to carry it, they will demand $50 USD no matter if you wanted them to or not. We all put our backpacks on our chests and held on for dear life. We went up to the ticket office and there was a lovely lady who helped us get onto a 2:00 ferry. We kept asking her if it was time for us to board or what we should be doing, so when it was finally time to board, she grabbed a worker and told him in Swahili, “Please take these four girls to the boat. They are very scared”. Haha. We walked through 3 security points, showed our ticket and passport to what seemed like 20 people, and we were given an immigration form to fill out for when we arrived in Zanzibar. For those that do not know, Zanzibar is technically part of Tanzania, but they desire to be an independent country, so we knew we were in for a treat. We sat in comfy seats in an air conditioned room and enjoyed the boat ride. Along the way, Nat started talking to a man named, Abdul. Abdul was a business man who knew everyone and everything about Zanzibar. We told him a bit of our story and how we wanted to take a flight from Zanzibar back to either Dar or Moshi so we could avoid the ferry fiasco all together on the way back. He started making calls and instantly had quotes for flights for us. He made a plan for us to stop at the airport in Zanzibar (great, they loved us!), and meet a man who would book our flights. How would we get there you ask? Oh he had already arranged for a driver to be waiting for us when the ferry arrived. Who is this guy?? The ferry docked and we walked up to the immigration counter. I was the lucky one to reach them first, so I handed a man wearing a beret my passport and my immigration paperwork. He took one look at me and immediately started drilling me with questions. Looking back, I now know that he was looking for one wrong answer or a loop hole to change my entire story. He asked where I came from – I told him I took the ferry from Dar. He asked where I was before Dar – I told him Moshi. He asked how long I was in Moshi – I told him 3 weeks. He asked where I was staying – I automatically said KCMC (Kilimanjaro Christian Medical Centre). There is was. He found the loop hole and I immediately was told that I have the wrong travel visa. By me saying that I was at KCMC meant that I was here on business, but we only had a tourist visa. The visa that we had was the tourist/mission trip visa and we had not had any issues until Zanzibar. I told him that we were not in Moshi conducting any kind of business and we were here as a tourist. Nat could hear me and the guy arguing and asked what was going on. As Nat chimed in and we told the man in the beret over and over that we conducted zero business, he attempted to scare us by saying we have been “breaking the law”. We said that Nat had been to and from Kenya, we all had flown from Amsterdam to Moshi without issues, but all of the sudden we were criminals and would be forced to each pay $300 USD for the correct visa. Nat and I started getting super heated and told him that this was unfair and that we were not paying $300 each just because we were Mzungu. Mr. Beret was on the verge of telling us to get back on the ferry and go back to Dar when suddenly a Mzungu angel in a red shirt appeared behind us and asked what was going on. Britt and Kari explained the situation to him and before we knew it, he went into the immigration office (behind the glass), talked to the immigration officers for 3 minutes, and then our passports were magically being stamped. Mr. Beret was so mad and slammed our passports on the counter and slid them under the glass to me. We grabbed those suckers and ran toward the exit! Abdul walked us out and we were greeted by our driver. We jumped into a van and headed toward the airport. Once there, we were whisked away into an office that was the size of a bathroom, and were greeted by a man that resembled Ceelo Green. He had booked us a flight on Safari Air Link and it would cost us $70 each. Not wanting to deal with the ferry and Dar, we gladly handed over $70. We thanked him and he told us to come meet him at his office on Monday prior to our return trip.
-Walking onto the ferry
- Enjoying the ride
- Pic from the top deck (we did not sit there being there was no covering and we were Mzungus on the equator)
Thanks for taking the time to read this novel. It was a rough couple of days but made for some great stories!
- Cari
Monday, March 6, 2017
Lucky 13
Sunday morning, we awoke to monkeys chilling at our doorstep, drinking out of the built-in foot washing basin. Apparently there are 2 main types of monkeys at the lodge: the green monkeys and the red monkeys. The Green Monkeys are the "more cheeky" ones that are interested in human food and possessions. The Red Monkeys are not as interested in that and, as our host informed us, they do there own thing. Lucky for us, the monkeys at our doorstep were the "less-cheeky" Red Monkeys. After snapping a few pics of the monkeys, we headed off for breakfast. Unfortunately, a few of us were feeing a bit under the weather and thought that maybe our illness was caused by the barbecue buffet that we had indulged in the night before. Thank goodness for rehydration pills and antibiotics.
Our day consisted of relaxing by the poolside, walking along the beach while getting hassled by people trying to sell their goods, and snoozing a bit. The roof of Cari and Nat's room was randomly being renovated, so there were piles of dirt coming down into their bathroom and lots of bugs unearthed! YUCK! Later that evening, we had an enjoyable dinner at our hotel with Kirsty and her bubbly German friend, Elke. They told us about the many deep sea diving tours they have done on their trip. We went to bed early, hoping to recover a little from our illnesses and lack of sleep from the night before.
The next morning, we packed and dressed for our last day in Zanzibar. We headed to breakfast for our customary eggs and toast as we looked over the ocean for the last time at our little resort. We were sad to be leaving Kirsty and the beautiful views, but happy to be going back to our familiar home in Moshi. Of course, we couldn't completely leave Zanzibar island without first making a stop at the spice market.
For those who don't know, Zanzibar is the spice capital of the world, so you can get quality spices for very cheap prices, even rare spices like saffron. As we sped down the highway, Britty began picturing a nice market filled with sultry aromas and lovely sites. Little did she know, as we climbed out of our car, our nostrils were hit with the pungent smell of raw meat and stale fish baking in the sun! "Is this really the spice market?" we said to each other and like clockwork, people started coming at us from all directions beckoning us towards their stalls filled with bags of spices. Poor Britty was so overcome by the "fleshy" smells that she thought she might faint or barf. Luckily, the rest of the girls were able to tell her when to keep her head down (to avoid seeing the hanging meat slabs) and when to breathe only through her mouth (to avoid the putrid fish, body odor, and meat aroma). We did find a few very nice shops with unique spices and nice clothing. Luckily, we are all getting pretty good at haggling, so we got everything for a pretty great price (or "rafiki price" as the locals call it).
As we finished walking through the market, we wiped our sweaty brows and decided that we needed a break from the hot sun and probably a bite to eat. The owner of the safari company we used recommended a hotel/restaurant called "6 degrees south". Determined to avoid yet another taxi fair, we set off to find the place (thank the lord for google maps and our WiFi stick). As we wound around narrow alleys and past rundown shops, we started to doubt our directions. Suddenly, we reached the ocean pier and to our right we saw the Holy Grail: The restaurant! This was the nicest restaurant we have been to this entire trip. Kari and Nat were impressed with the real toilets and "Charmin-like" toilet paper to start! We took advantage of the fresh seafood and man did it pay off!
After we finished our lunch, it was time to call our taxi driver and head to the airport for our flight. Of course, not before stopping by one last souvenir shop. Nat learned how to play a local game, similar to Mancala.
We arrived at the Zanzibar international airport, where we searched for Mohammed, the man that we bought our plane tickets from, in his tiny, janky office. He had told us to meet him at his office or gate 7. Of course we didn't find him, but there was another random gentleman that told us to follow him to the gate. When we arrived, the man told us that our flight had been delayed 2 hours, but not to worry, because he had another flight in mind for us. We waited and waited in this tiny gate as each group was being called to their plane. We started getting worried, so Nat went to the counter to see when our flight was. The man responded "Usijale (don't you worry)! Your flight will be leaving shortly!" By this time, we were all speculating that this airplane was much smaller than the normal commercial flight, being that our boarding pass said the flight would be taking off at 4pm and it was 3:50pm. Nat asked, "Is this a tiny plane?" To which the man responded, "Oh no, no, no! It's medium!" Nat pressed further, "Okay, so it holds maybe 30 people?" To which the man responded "Oh no, no, no! 13 passengers!" Nat's face turned ghost white as she slowly walked towards the rest of the group to share this new information. Cari is not so fond of flying, so we all tried to keep a chipper attitude, even though we were all internally freaking out about this "tuna-can" of a plane. As they called our flight number, we hopped into the shuttle and as we went around the bend, we saw a smallish plane. We reassured each other with "I bet that's the plane. It doesn't look too small. Looks pretty legit!" Our hearts sank to our stomach as we passed that plane and rounded the corner to view our ACTUAL plane! It seemed even smaller than the shuttle we were currently driving in, but we all took a fresh breath and strutted towards our only way back to mainland, showing it no fear! All of a sudden, the man guiding us to the plane pointed at Kari and said "hey you! Want to be co-pilot?" Before Kari could utter a word, Britty pushed her out of the way and shouted, "Me! Me! I'm doing it!" We all looked at each other as Britty shoved her bag in our hands and climbed the ladder to the co-pilot's chair!
The ride was actually quite smooth, which we equated to the Muslim men in front of us praying the entire time. It was rather comical to have 9 of the passengers all in matching hats and robes praying and chatting nonchalantly with us 4 American girls clinging to the side of the plane. We landed at the Dar es Salaam terminal (practically kissing the ground as we got off the plane) and grabbed a taxi to the terminal next door to catch our next flight back to Moshi. After the flight we had just overcome, we knew we could handle just about anything.
We arrived at our familiar Kilimanjaro airport and found our familiar taxi driver, Festo, to drive us home. We arrived back at our A18 house and packed our bags for our flight back to America tomorrow. We will work one more day at the CCC before leaving for our flight at 5pm. More to come on that!
Kesho,
Nat and Britty
First full day in Zanzibar!
After our arduous journey to get to Zanzibar (that's a whole separate post- to be coming later), we finally arrived at the resort just in time to check in and enjoy dinner by the ocean. We decided to go to bed at a reasonable hour (but not after enjoying a couple Rum Punches!)
Our first full day at the Red Monkey Beach Lodge was pretty amazing!
First off- the weather. It is very warm and humid here! The sun is strong but thankfully there are plenty of shaded areas to sit, and the breeze makes it nice too.
The rooms are large with a king sized bed in the middle (complete with mosquito nets!) and a twin bed off to the size. We got two rooms, and in true fashion, Cari and Nat took one and Brittany and I took the other. Brittany and I had some nice overnight guests of a salamander, some sort of centipede thing, and a couple ants. We got everything taken care of and laid down to bed. HOLY MAN IT WAS HOT! We had the fan on full blast and relaxed and finally fell asleep. We could hear the other girls giggling through the window (again, in true fashion). We fell asleep and got to sleep in for the very first time this whole trip. For the last 2.5 weeks we have been getting up anywhere between 5:30-6:45 every single day!!! We slept in until about 8:45 and got ready for breakfast.
When we booked the resort we picked the package that had breakfast included. We came out and ordered Spanish omelettes, fried eggs, fruit plates, and our new favorite- banana cake!! we had tea and REAL coffee (we have had instant this whole time so far- yuck!) The resort serves breakfast until noon but none of us were able to ever sleep in past about 9. That's what getting up early every day for 3 weeks will do to you, I guess!
The resort is small, but very warm and inviting. There's 14 rooms, and in the common areas there are several hammocks, and tables/chairs to sprawl out at. One cool thing is that outside most of the rooms, there is a little water basin where you can rinse your feet off before heading into your room!! One morning we saw monkeys drinking out of them!! Down by the beach there are several lounge chairs. After breakfast, we laid out on the lounge chairs and after several hours decided to take a walk out to the ocean.
One thing none of us knew prior to getting here was how extreme the tides were. In the morning, the water seems to be at a normal spot on the beach, not too high up and not too far down. As the afternoon goes on, the tide goes out and it goes REALLY far out. It's actually kind of comical because there are boats that are anchored a couple hundred feet from the shore, but when the tide comes out the boats just sit there, on the sand. We didn't realize exactly how far the water went out until we started walking to get to the water and realized we were at least a half a mile away from our lodge, walking straight "into" the Indian ocean! This was one of the coolest parts - something we haven't really seen before. The ocean floor had cool designs in the sand from the shallow waves (I'm talking like several millimeters of water, not even enough to go over your foot) and lots of little pools which we soon realized were filled with so much sea life! We watched sea urchins, sea stars, snails, crabs, coral, and I'm sure tons of other life that I'm forgetting to name. We also came across some interesting stick looking things that we realized was a seaweed farm. Not sure what exactly the seaweed is used for but it was super interesting! We finally reached the ocean and Nat, Kirsty (remember our friend from the Safari?! She coincidentally had booked the same hotel at the same time as us.. it was fun to have a familiar face there!) and I decided to jump in to see how the water was. It was so warm. Like lukewarm bath water. We went out just until the water reached our hips, and splashed around. The water is super salty so we had fun floating around. It was so odd to be swimming in such warm, salty water that was so far away from our hotel!!
After lunch we decided to take advantage of the pool at the neighboring hotel the Coral Rock (we were told that patrons of the Red Monkey Lodge could head over there and use the pool for free) and swam around and enjoyed some poolside cocktails for the rest of the afternoon and into the evening. It was SO warm and the pool felt great. There wasn't a ton of shade so the only relief from the heat was the pool. It was an infinity pool which added to the fun. Once the tide came in, we decided to go for another swim since we didn't have to walk so far out. We met some people from South Africa and England and heard some not so nice words about our nations new president.. Believe it or not, but pretty much the first thing out of everyone's mouth when we say we are American has something to do with Trump. Needless to say, it's getting a little old.
We ran back to our hotel to shower quick and get ready to head back to the Coral Rock Hotel- where there was a buffet dinner and a "party" going on. We had the food (super disappointing), chatted with the first Americans we have seen all trip, and tried to dance and hang out at the "party"... unfortunately, we aren't the party animals we maybe once were, and decided to head to bed around midnight. The party was dead!! Or should I say, as we found out later, the party hadn't even really started yet! Apparently they stay up until 2/3 in the morning drinking and dancing..... no thanks, not for these old ladies!!
A billion funny things happen every single day to us, and we usually say, "well that's going in the blog!!" But when it comes time to write it we never remember. Two funny things that I can remember ...
- Brittany gazing out of the edge of the infinity pool, at the low tide ocean with all the boats anchored in the sand, and saying, "how many pirates do you think are out there??"
- At times, Americans (and us) are "OTT"- over the top. Go figure! Thanks for the acronym, Kirsty!
- Of all the places on the entire island, the guys from the plane ride to Zanzibar/Dar Es Salaam (the "drug dealers") were staying at the Coral Rock!!! What a small world. Needless to say, we saw the guy with the cane multiple times walking just fine...... how peculiar.....
-sassypants
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